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Una Mirada a la Historia - Salamina.com.co
Salamina 200 años

Una Mirada a la Historia

Salamina, una mirada a la historia de la colonización antioqueña

En 1982 se logró que el territorio fuera declarado Monumento Nacional.

Por:Alfredo Molano

Salir de Manizales hacia el norte es echar una mirada a la historia de la colonización antioqueña pegada a la vertiente occidental de la cordillera Central: Neira, Aránzazu, Filadelfia, Salamina, Pácora, Aguadas, Abejorral, Sonsón.

La carretera que une estos pueblos, hoy pavimentada y bien mantenida, fue la trocha que los colonos abrieron para descumbrar selva y hacerse con la posesión de tierras que reclamaban como propias las grandes concesiones territoriales otorgadas por la Corona desde fines del siglo XVIII. La verdadera lucha de los colonos no fue contra una selva enmarañada sino contra la maraña de títulos de propiedad.

En las cercanías de Sonsón se estableció en 1787 la que Parsons considera la primera colonia del movimiento hacia el sur.

Salamina, cuna del Paisaje cultural cafetero Colombiano
Foto Wilman Alberto Vásquez Valencia

Antiguos mazamorreros, trabajadores sin tierra, esclavos libertos, vagos, ladronzuelos, pícaros fueron la primera ola colonizadora que llegó a Sonsón y Abejorral a fines del siglo XVIII y principios del XIX.

Se estrellaron contra la concesión real de Felipe Villegas sobre todos “esos países”, y se crio en ellos un semillero de litigios y enfrentamientos que desembocó en violencia abierta.

Después de Sonsón se establecieron las colonias de Abejorral (1808), Aguadas (1814), Pácora (1832) y Salamina. La colonización avanzaba hacia el sur –“Cauca arriba”– a medida que las nuevas tierras eran ocupadas o entraban en complicados litigios con los pretendidos propietarios.

Hubo también un frente de “colonización forzada” al sur del río Pozo con gentes que “no tenían rentas, ni bienes, ni oficios, ni beneficios”, en lo que más tarde se llamaría Salamina, fundada legalmente en 1825 sobre terrenos considerados baldíos o de utilidad pública.

En 1833 fue trasladada a su ubicación actual, pero siempre dentro de la concesión Aránzazu, propiedad de la poderosa firma comercial González, Salazar y Cía. En Salamina las corrientes culturales y económicas de Cauca y Antioquia se enfrentaron. Inclusive en la región tuvo lugar la célebre batalla de Salamina (abril de 1841), donde el gobierno de Herrán derrotó a los rebeldes.

La colonización antioqueña tuvo que enfrentar, como queda dicho, las grandes concesiones de tierra, cuyo papel era obligar por la fuerza de la ley y de las armas a que la gente sin tierra trabajara esos enormes territorios. Pero era casi imposible mantener a raya la colonización, de tal manera que los trabajadores rebasaron los sistemas de arrendamiento, terraje, aparcería y jornaleo, por la simple razón de que había tierras disponibles y sobre todo fértiles, en particular las de la cara occidental de la cordillera Central, donde el café se daba muy bien y los árboles pepeaban con abundancia. Para completar, a fines del siglo XIX el precio internacional del grano se mantuvo en ascenso.

Estos hechos explican que en el Eje Cafetero, salvo en Fredonia, la gran hacienda cafetera al estilo de Cundinamarca y Tolima no echara raíces. Los grandes concesionarios no pudieron hacer haciendas. Más bien terminaron por parcelar las propiedades reconocidas por el Estado, una vez que los gobiernos entregaron a las colonias grandes globos de terreno para la fundación de pueblos y el asentamiento de colonos.

El café fue controlado no por terratenientes sino por comerciantes exportadores que terminaron fundando la Federación Nacional de Cafeteros. De todas maneras, el cultivo parcelario del café contribuyó no solo al nacimiento de la industria y a su crecimiento, sino también a crear un campesinado libre, asomo de una democracia real.

A Salamina por tierra

De Manizales a Salamina, el descenso es vertiginoso hasta el puente sobre el río Guacaica; en pocos minutos el clima cambia y los cultivos de café escasean. La carretera se hizo sobre el trazado del Camino del Norte, construido por colonos antes de la fundación de Manizales, de sur a norte, en sentido contrario a la colonización, lo que hace suponer que en realidad fue un mejoramiento de la trocha de los colonos. La carretera vuelve a subir hasta un punto llamado Las Guacas, donde, según se dice, había muchas sepulturas de indios. La búsqueda de guacas fue uno de los resortes de la exploración geográfica empírica llevada a cabo más por guaqueros que por campesinos.

Al remontar la cuchilla, la vertiente se llena de parcelas cafeteras. Quizá por haber sido un camino de a pie se conserva hoy la buena costumbre de mantener las rondas de las quebradas y las orillas de los caminos con árboles que procuran humedad y sombra. Los quiches crecen en los troncos. Se diría que a cambio del hospedaje guardan el agua que el palo necesita en los veranos. En contraste, Cartón de Colombia tiene algunos cultivos de pino debajo de los cuales no hay ni cucarrones ni mariposas. Literalmente, no se da ni agua.

Al voltear una curva aparece, sin anuncio, Neira. Como su hermano gemelo, Aránzazu, no conserva de los días de la colonización sino unas pocas edificaciones en franco deterioro. La catedral tiene un aire musulmán; en la primera planta, como en las mezquitas, funciona un mercado.

A Salamina llegué cuando la tarde caía con esa morosidad que hace ver de cobre el lomerío que la rodea y la sustenta. El pueblo, construido en la cúspide de un cerro, fue Cantón del Sur y Prefectura, y durante la primera parte del siglo XIX dominó la economía de la región.

“En la cúspide de esa mole gigantesca –escribió Manuel de Pombo en 1852–, la población exhibe sus casas entretejadas y desiguales y sus calles trazadas en declives rápidos… Un nido de águilas encaramado en un peñasco. Salamina, Caldas, es hermana de otros pueblos con nombres griegos como Salento, La Tebaida, Tesalia, a los que fueron muy dados los colonos antioqueños y que todavía están vigentes en la llamada cultura greco-quimbaya”.

Un negro sabio me dijo un día en El Charco, Nariño, que para conocer un pueblo había que comenzar por la iglesia. Así hice en Salamina. No es una iglesia simple, como las de sus pueblos hermanos, sino una catedral construida en 1865 por Michel Martin, ingeniero inglés traído al país por la empresa Casa Gold Schmidt para explotar las minas de oro de Marmato y Supía. Las vigas interiores de la nave central son de 18,65 metros; la cúpula mide 34,40 metros. Es basílica menor y como tal tiene obispo: a la derecha del altar mayor están los emblemas del Papa, las llaves del reino y la tiara pontificia.

El órgano, de 320 flautas, fue fabricado en París; las campanas tienen en su aleación oro y piedras preciosas; la custodia y la corona de la Virgen –que están en la bóveda del Banco de la República– son de oro macizo. Es la catedral con la luz más amplia de toda la América hispana. En los corredores paralelos se encuentran, en sendos altares, dos imágenes muy queridas por los fieles: Jesucristo crucificado y la Virgen de las Mercedes. Es extraño que a los lados de cada uno de estos altares haya compases y triángulos, insignias de la masonería. El secreto está en que bajo el altar mayor se reunía en un patio discreto el Círculo Literario, que pertenecía a la logia de la zona.

La basílica tiene una obra de madera portentosa hecha por el maestro Eliseo Tangarife y sus discípulos a principios del siglo pasado, siendo cura párroco José Joaquín Barco Ángel. La pieza más valiosa y trabajada es el púlpito, labrado en madera de cedro rojo y decorado con una vid tallada sobre los pasamanos. El artesonado, el altar mayor y los confesionarios son todos hechos con cedro rojo, lo que da una sensación de armonía y unidad al conjunto.

Al salir de la catedral se entiende por qué Salamina es llamada “ciudad luz”. No porque se parezca a París, aunque en la mitad del parque tiene una pila de agua copia de la que hay en la plaza de la Concordia, traída en bueyes desde Honda, atravesando el páramo de Herveo. La razón es simple: la luz estalla. Uno se siente tentado a resguardarse de nuevo en la basílica como un pecador arrepentido, tentación que pasa cuando se observan las 14 manzanas muy bien conservadas que componen el casco antiguo del pueblo.

Más allá de la admiración que producen los balcones pintados sin miedo al color, el equilibrio del trazo desafiando las pendientes, los balcones en hierro forjado hechos para resistir el tiempo y la guerra, la densa neblina que envuelve misteriosamente el pueblo y no deja ver el otro lado del parque, el encanto que tienen los expendios casi clandestinos de leche cruda, están las tallas en madera de portones, puertas interiores y soleras de los comedores hechas por Tangarife y sus discípulos Custodio Saraza, Arnoldo Peláez, Rogelio Arce, Juan de Dios Marulanda y Fernando Tapia.

El trabajo de este grupo excéntrico y creativo de ebanistas y carpinteros constituye la llave del hechizo de Salamina. De lo portentoso hecho en maderas finas son excepcionales los mascarones que presiden los dinteles de las puertas, como el del negro Teban, el mandadero del maestro, que preside la entrada de la Casa de la Cultura.

Las casas de la aristocracia tenían patios interiores con naranjos y orquídeas. Originales son las llamadas soleras en los comedores: espacios abiertos al oriente para que el sol entrara con fuerza y se colara por los visillos de la puerta que da al corredor, donde estaban las obras de madera más importantes de la casa: calados finísimos, postigos, mascarones y marcos decorados. La obra de Tangarife es una equilibrada y sagaz mezcla entre un alambicado barroco y una especie de art nouveau llamado por los conocedores ‘barrocotangarinismo’. Además de tallador y ebanista, Tangarife fue también arquitecto.

Frente a la catedral está situada la casa del Degüello, un caserón colonial de paredes de tapia pisada levantadas por tapieros traídos de Antioquia. Fueron las trincheras donde resistió el general conservador Cosme Marulanda, con 200 hombres, el asalto del general radical Valentín Daeza, al mando de 600 veteranos. Se trató de una de las tantas guerras civiles regionales; tuvo lugar entre enero y marzo de 1879 y enfrentó la invariable alianza del conservatismo y la Iglesia contra el liberalismo radical. Se cuenta que los liberales doblegaron a Marulanda, degollaron a 80 de sus soldados y expusieron los cuerpos en el parque central. Un parque bellísimo que el cura Barco al final del siglo quiso convertir en un jardín botánico público donde sembró ceibas, madroños, araucarias, palmas de cera, higuerones, guayacanes, gualandayes, tulipanes y mangos, que aún se conservan. Al amanecer, cuando la neblina invade el parque, los árboles, las bancas y la pila se diluyen.

Salamina no fue solo una plaza militar importante por donde pasaron los ejércitos y trasegaron las guerrillas desde la guerra de los Supremos hasta la de los Mil días. El pueblo tuvo un batallón propio, llamado de Salamina, que libró numerosos combates hasta ser disuelto después de la batalla de Palonegro en mayo de 1900. Funcionaron también el Banco de Salamina, la empresa de teléfonos, la fábrica de gaseosas Frescola Salamina, la de chocolates Tesalia y la de cerveza La Perreña.

Paradójicamente, la decadencia de la pequeña ciudad comenzó con la llegada en 1922 del primer automóvil, que sus habitantes esperaban con febril ansiedad desde 1912 cuando el alcalde mandó destruir los anchos andenes y prohibió los aleros para hacer más cómodo y seguro el tránsito de vehículos automotores.

Cuando la carretera se inauguró, a los pueblos de la comarca –Aguadas, Pácora, Aránzazu, Neira, Las Mercedes, Filadelfia– llegaron también los camiones para surtir almacenes y tiendas, y el comercio de Salamina entró en una lánguida decadencia. Arruinada, la aristocracia local no pudo transformar sus viejos caserones de bases fuertes de tapia pisada –algunas en calicanto– y de paredes altas y flexibles de bahareque en construcciones rectilíneas y pesadas en cemento, como lo hicieron sus pares en los otros pueblos.

La arquitectura de las 14 manzanas antiguas se conservó intacta hasta la época de la Violencia, que en Salamina no fue sangrienta pese a que los partidos tradicionales se enfrentaran con encendidas piezas oratorias en la plaza pública. Las cosas no pasaron de lo que llamaron aplanchadas o ataques con yataganes o con la parte plana de las peinillas. No obstante, en Salamina se vieron unos hombres fuertes, carirredondos y sanguíneos que hablaban como pasando por encima de las palabras y que estaban llegando al corregimiento de San Félix, donde los ricos tenían haciendas enormes con unas pocas vacas lecheras de raza normanda, peludas y lentas.

Eran gentes oriundas de Boyacá, más exactamente de Chiquinquirá, Ráquira, Saboyá, Carmen de Carupa, Gachantivá, Puente Nacional; liberales que la policía chulavita y la cuadrilla de Efraín González –protegido por los dominicos– perseguían, maltrataban y asesinaban desde el 9 de abril de 1948. Huían hacia el norte de Tolima –Santa Isabel, Murillo– y el nororiente de Caldas –Páramos de Letras y Herveo– para tumbar monte, hacer carbón y sembrar papa en haciendas. Llegaron como agregados de los terratenientes. Hicieron compañía con los propietarios para sembrar papa, trigo y cebada; les enseñaron a cultivar horizontalmente y de arriba para abajo. Las buenas cosechas atrajeron a otros parientes o paisanos de los recién llegados. La colonia boyacense creció con rapidez. Las compañías con los ricos terminaron en compras de tierra. Los padres misioneros de La Consolata construyeron la iglesia y fundaron un seminario menor.

Los boyacenses se enriquecieron con el cultivo de la papa y se adueñaron de su comercialización en Salamina y el norte de Caldas. Abrieron negocios en las plazas de mercado y ampliaron sus propiedades en San Félix. En épocas de cosecha salían del pueblo 200 camiones que abastecían la demanda de la región y de Medellín. Se cultivaron también trigo, cebada y hortalizas.

La prosperidad fue tan grande, que en los años 60 comenzaron a comprar casas solariegas en Salamina, pero, poseídos del espíritu del desarrollo, las remodelaron a su gusto: construcciones planas en cemento armado, ventanas pequeñas y rejas de metal. No fueron pocas las casas que tumbaron del todo para levantar las nuevas construcciones que destrozaron la homogeneidad de la arquitectura de colonización cafetera.

Pese al intento de modernización urbana desarrollada por los boyacenses, Salamina se conserva. En 1982 Darío Ruiz logró que el pueblo fuera declarado Monumento Nacional.

En Salamina la historia del país no ha pasado en vano, deja su huella.

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